First-Time Homebuyer Inspection Checklist

Everything you need to do before, during, and after your home inspection — written for people who've never done this before.

Your offer was accepted. Congratulations — and welcome to the most nerve-wracking week of the homebuying process. The inspection is coming up and you have no idea what to expect.

That's completely normal. The inspection contingency period is actually one of the most valuable protections you have as a buyer. This is your chance to understand exactly what you're buying before it's too late to back out.

This checklist walks you through the entire process, step by step.

Before the Inspection

• Hire your own inspector. Don't use someone your real estate agent suggests without researching them first. Look for ASHI or InterNACHI certification. Check reviews. A good inspector works for you, not the deal.
• Read the seller's disclosure first. Before the inspection, read the seller's disclosure carefully. Note anything vague, surprising, or marked "unknown." You'll want to ask the inspector about these specifically.
• Make a list of concerns. Write down anything that worried you during showings — stains on ceilings, musty smells, old appliances, cracks you noticed. Give this list to your inspector.
• Ask about add-on inspections. Discuss with your inspector whether you should add sewer scope ($150-$300), radon testing ($150-$250), or mold testing ($300-$600) based on the home's age and location.
• Budget $400-$700 for the inspection. A standard inspection costs $350-$500. Add-ons bring it up. This is one of the best investments in the entire process — don't skip it to save money.
• Clear your schedule for 3-4 hours. Plan to attend the entire inspection. Being there matters — photos and reports don't capture everything.

During the Inspection

• Show up on time and follow the inspector. Walk with them. Watch what they're checking. This is your education on the house you're about to buy.
• Ask questions — but wait for the right moment. Let the inspector work through their process. Ask your questions when they transition between areas or systems.
• Take your own photos and notes. The report will have photos too, but documenting things from your perspective helps when reviewing later.
• Ask "How worried would you be about this?" Inspectors write reports conservatively for liability reasons. When they flag something, ask them directly how serious they think it is. Their verbal answer is often more informative than the written report.
• Ask about the Big 6. Foundation, roof, electrical, plumbing, water intrusion, HVAC. These are the expensive systems. Make sure you understand the condition of each. See our guide to reading inspection reports for details.
• Ask "What would you want to know if you were buying this house?" This often gets you the most honest, unfiltered answer from an inspector.
• Note anything marked "inaccessible." If the inspector couldn't check something because it was blocked or locked, note it. You may want to request access before your contingency expires.
• Don't panic. Every house has issues. A long inspection doesn't mean a bad house — it usually means a thorough inspector. Focus on understanding, not worrying.

Questions to Ask Your Inspector

First-time buyers often don't know what to ask. Here are the questions that matter most:

1. "What are the top 3 most significant issues you found?"
2. "Are there any safety hazards I need to address immediately?"
3. "How old is the roof, and how many years of life does it have left?"
4. "What's the age and condition of the HVAC? When should I expect to replace it?"
5. "Did you see any evidence of water intrusion — past or present?"
6. "Is there anything that concerns you but won't be in the report?"
7. "Would you recommend any specialist inspections based on what you saw?"
8. "Are there any code violations that could affect insurance or resale?"
9. "What are the most expensive repairs this house will likely need in the next 5 years?"
10. "Is there anything inconsistent with the seller's disclosure?"

After the Inspection: The Report

You'll get a written report within 24-48 hours. It will feel overwhelming. Here's how to process it:

• Read the summary first. Most reports have a summary page with the most significant findings. Start there.
• Focus on safety hazards and major defects. Skip informational items on your first read. You're looking for things rated "safety hazard," "major defect," or "repair needed."
• Cross-reference with the seller's disclosure. Did the seller say "no known water issues" but the inspector found moisture? These contradictions are important — both for negotiation leverage and for understanding the seller's honesty. Our red flags guide covers what to watch for.
• Sort findings into categories. Create a simple list: (1) deal-breakers, (2) things to negotiate, (3) things to fix after closing, (4) cosmetic/optional.
• Estimate repair costs. Use our repair cost guide to put dollar figures on everything in categories 1 and 2. Real numbers strengthen your negotiation.
• Decide: negotiate, proceed, or walk away. There are no wrong answers here. Every situation is different.

After the Inspection: Negotiation

If you decide to negotiate, you typically have three options:

1. Ask the seller to make repairs — Good for safety items and clear-cut fixes. Risk: you can't control the quality of their work.
2. Ask for a repair credit — A dollar amount off closing costs. This gives you control over who does the work and how. Usually the best option.
3. Ask for a price reduction — Reduces the purchase price. Saves money long-term (lower mortgage, taxes, insurance), but takes longer to close.

For detailed strategies on each approach, see our negotiation guide.

The Decision Timeline

Typical inspection contingency periods are 10-17 days. Here's how that time usually breaks down:

Common First-Timer Mistakes

1. Skipping the inspection to "win" the offer. In competitive markets, agents push buyers to waive inspections. This is almost never worth it. An inspection-for-informational-purposes clause preserves your right to knowledge, even if you waive your right to negotiate.
2. Focusing on cosmetic issues. Ugly paint, dated cabinets, and stained carpet are not inspection issues. They're renovation choices. Don't waste your negotiation leverage on things that don't affect the home's safety or structural integrity.
3. Not attending the inspection. Reading a report is no substitute for being there. You'll miss nuance, context, and the inspector's candid verbal observations.
4. Expecting a perfect report. No house is perfect. Not even new construction. The goal isn't zero findings — it's understanding what you're buying and what it'll cost to maintain.
5. Making emotional decisions. After a long home search, it's tempting to rationalize away red flags. If the inspection reveals serious structural problems, water damage, or concealed issues, those feelings of attachment are costing you money.
6. Ignoring the seller's disclosure. The disclosure is a legal document. When it contradicts the inspection, that's not just a negotiation point — it could be grounds for legal recourse after closing.

When to Walk Away

Walking away is always an option, and sometimes it's the smartest one. Consider walking if:

• Total estimated repairs exceed 10% of the purchase price
• The inspection reveals problems the seller clearly concealed
• Foundation or structural issues require specialist evaluation and the seller won't allow it
• The seller refuses to negotiate on legitimate safety concerns
• Multiple major systems (roof, HVAC, plumbing) are at end of life simultaneously
• Environmental hazards (mold, asbestos, lead) are extensive

You'll typically lose earnest money ($1,000-$5,000), but that's far cheaper than buying a home with $30,000+ in hidden problems.