How to Read a Home Inspection Report

Your report is 30+ pages of findings. Here's how to understand what actually matters — and what you can safely ignore.

You just got your home inspection report back. It's dense, technical, and filled with photos of things you've never thought about — pipe fittings, attic joists, electrical panels. Somewhere between "satisfactory" and "safety hazard," your buying decision is hiding.

Take a breath. Almost every inspection report looks alarming at first. The key is knowing what to focus on, what to ignore, and how to turn findings into action. This guide teaches you to read your report like someone who's done it a hundred times.

How Inspection Reports Are Structured

Most reports follow a standard structure, working through the property system by system:

• Exterior — Siding, trim, grading, drainage, driveways, walkways
• Roof — Shingles/tiles, flashing, gutters, chimneys, vents
• Structure — Foundation, framing, crawl spaces, load-bearing walls
• Electrical — Panel, wiring type, outlets, GFCI protection
• Plumbing — Pipe material, water heater, fixtures, water pressure
• HVAC — Heating, cooling, ductwork, thermostats
• Interior — Walls, ceilings, floors, windows, doors
• Attic & Insulation — Ventilation, insulation type and depth, moisture
• Garage — Door operation, fire separation, structural integrity

Each section contains individual findings rated by severity. Your job is to understand that severity scale.

Understanding Severity Ratings

This is the single most important skill in reading your report. Not all findings are equal:

The Big 6: What to Look For First

Before you read anything else, scan for findings in these six areas. These are the expensive, potentially dangerous issues that actually affect your decision:

1. Foundation & Structure

Look for words like "settling," "cracking," "bowing," or "structural concern." Foundation problems range from $5,000 for minor crack repair to $50,000+ for major stabilization. Horizontal cracks and stair-step patterns are more concerning than small vertical hairlines. See our cost guide for specific repair estimates.

2. Roof

Check the estimated remaining life. If the inspector says "2-5 years remaining" or "end of useful life," that's a $10,000-$25,000 expense heading your way. Active leaks, missing flashing, and sagging roof lines are urgent.

3. Electrical

Red flags include Federal Pacific or Zinsco panels (known fire hazards that warrant immediate replacement), aluminum wiring, and any mention of "not up to current code." Missing GFCI protection near water sources is common but cheap to fix.

4. Plumbing

Watch for polybutylene pipes (gray, flexible — prone to catastrophic failure), galvanized steel pipes (corrode internally), active leaks, and sewer line concerns. If the inspector recommends a sewer scope, get one. Sewer replacements cost $3,000-$25,000.

5. Water Intrusion

Evidence of moisture in basements, crawl spaces, or attics is a major concern. Look for staining, efflorescence (white mineral deposits), mold, or musty odors. Water problems get worse, not better — and they often indicate the seller hasn't been forthcoming. Cross-reference these findings with the seller's disclosure.

6. HVAC

Check the age. Systems older than 15-20 years are approaching end of life. If the inspector notes "not producing adequate heating/cooling" or the system uses discontinued R-22 refrigerant, budget $5,000-$15,000 for replacement.

What You Can Usually Ignore

Inspectors are thorough by design. Many findings are routine observations, not actual problems:

• Missing caulk — Around windows, tubs, sinks. A $10 weekend fix.
• Cosmetic cracks in drywall — Small hairlines from normal settling.
• Dirty HVAC filters — $10 replacement, not a defect.
• Outdated but functional fixtures — Old doesn't mean broken.
• Minor grading issues — "Soil should slope away from foundation" appears on nearly every report.
• Missing GFCI outlets — Common in older homes, $100-$250 each to add.

Reading Between the Lines

Inspectors choose their words carefully — partly for accuracy, partly for liability protection. Here's how to decode common phrases:

Cross-Referencing With the Seller's Disclosure

This is where inspection reports become truly powerful. Compare every significant finding against what the seller disclosed. Look for:

• Contradictions — Seller says "no known water intrusion" but inspector found staining in the basement
• Omissions — Inspector found a repaired foundation crack the seller never mentioned
• Vague language covering real issues — Seller writes "some cosmetic cracks" but inspector finds structural concerns

Contradictions give you significant leverage in negotiations and may have legal implications. Our seller disclosure red flags guide covers the 12 most common warning signs in detail.

Building Your Action List

After reading the full report, organize findings into four buckets:

1. Must-fix before closing — Safety hazards, active leaks, structural issues
2. Negotiate for credit — Expensive repairs you'll manage yourself (roof, HVAC, plumbing)
3. Fix within first year — Important but not urgent items
4. Cosmetic / optional — Everything else

This list becomes your negotiation roadmap. Focus requests on categories 1 and 2 — those are the items any reasonable seller should address. For help estimating the dollar amounts, see our repair cost guide.

When to Get Specialty Inspections

General inspectors are generalists. If your report flags concerns in these areas, invest in a specialist:

The Bottom Line

Your inspection report is a tool, not a verdict. Every house has issues — the question is whether those issues are manageable, negotiable, or deal-breaking.

Focus on the Big 6, understand severity ratings, cross-reference with the disclosure, and build a clear action list. That's how you turn 50 pages of technical jargon into a confident buying decision.